Oslo – a Winter’s Tale

Oslo? Long the Norwegian capital was considered expensive, boring and Hillbilly, was trivialized as ‘large village’, where you can buy thick sweaters and ridiculous plastic trolls. A relay station on the journey in the land of the fjords and Fjelle. Then came August 25, 2001-and 300 million television viewers around the world saw the capital of a modern monarchy in a celebratory mood, watched the fairy tale wedding of the stately Prince Haakon and the blond bourgeois Mette-Marit, who has drug experience and and an illegitimate son. Oslo? There is something going on!

Old town and sculpture garden

The shops of “Kaffebrenneriet”, a coffee-shop chain, is the young Oslo, Women and men like from the 70’s-years advertising. Screeching passes a blue streetcar line on the shop window. In which we rumble later through the old quarter. Playful facades, Bay Windows, wrought-iron balconies, staircases like theater entrées. Further, the city is three stops mere backdrop to short Stapfe through deep snow. We are in a huge park, life in its center of the Vigeland, a large sculpture garden with around 200 and larger than life characters. I sit next to an elderly woman on a pedestal, as we split the sport part of their “aftenposten”. Wheezing past three men on cross-country skis.

The Holmenkollen ski jump

Of course, also my neighbor’s enthusiastic cross country skier. “The best part of Oslo is the Nordmarka,” she says and taps with the glow of her cigarette in the direction of the mountains with the Holmenkollen ski jump. Elegant it stands above the town stands up to the sky, a concrete Ypsilon verifications on the head. Up the Hill is with the S-Bahn. The rush is great, and Saturday lunch needs patience, who ever wants to get standing on the train.

The railway winds up the side of the mountain through pine forest, passing on great nearby homes. Arrived at Frognerseteren, the end of the line up of the Holmenkollen ski jump, we get little mouth to of AHS and OHS, so beautifully situated us feet-railways, roads, houses, green, the port, the Ships the colorline, the fjord, distance, distance. Who says dreams of every day to have this look out the bathroom window.

We see from PROGRAMINGPLEASE, hands through loops stuck the skiers in their preparations as they put their outlet shoes and pants, secure children in back and get on the way. Someone told us of the toboggan run. About 2.5 km long is the train of the carriage Club of Oslo. In the 50s, when Luger still not like 130-km / h-pipe mail were chased by bobsleigh, it spent on the natural route to Olympic gold. Ten years ago, the Club began to give red Luge; initially a dozen, now more than 200-and on Saturday afternoon are’s almost all gone. Parents and children, giggling teens and guys with helmets crash on the descent to the s-Bahn Midstuen. The train goes back up. Some people play people JoJo an all day.

At the “waterfront”

It would be a mistake to reduce the town and its people (even if the cross-country skiers even under the bedroom window of the Prince pair in the park along slip) on the archaic desire for the winter physical exercise. Like hardly another port city Oslo has not understood the triumphal March of the container as a disaster, bringing unemployment because of the tremendous speed of the information. The desertification of the port was understood as an opportunity to transform the “waterfront” in this lively city. Akerbrygge created a new district right on the dock, with Cafés, restaurants, bars. The lights on the water glistening at dusk.

Enjoy the past and lust on the future: after decades of Abgeschottetseins Oslo opens the people and influences of the “continent”, as Europe here. And the continent is fascinated looking north. Oslo has become to the cold counterpart of Sydney, with quality of life and zest for innovation: “Netavisen” is created here, the first newspaper published only on the Internet (in Germany “Netzeitung”). And the international gourmet juries award Oslo’s restaurants with stars and bells.

Night life

The Grünerløkka in its pubs Prince Haakon was spotted frequently as a Bachelor, reminiscent of Berlin-Mitte, some say even in Greenwich Village. Who here is not artist-or princess in spe-, is host. The Cafés carry their business idea in the name, such as “Bagel & juice”, “Tea Lounge” and “Soup bar”. Two interconnected local of hot ‘Sult’ and “Tørst”; While you are waiting for a table in the “hunger”, it hisses a beer in the “thirst”. On Saturday night, it is offered in both. The scene people of the city like anywhere responds to such successes: with emigration.

The tram leaves the Thorwald Meyers gate down, leaves the East of Oslo, howls through the Centre and back to the West the district with the greatest tradition of night life in Oslo after major Stua. It is far past midnight. With almost excessive devotion the Oslo celebrate 16 mark night, although in the nightclubs a beer costs ten marks, a gin and tonic. One o’clock in the morning in the “Odeon”, from the loudspeakers blaring Abba, by the bar, we see nothing, just ecstatic faces. In the adjacent “Millennium”, which once was a butcher, dancing women and men on the tables and on the counter. Four o’clock in the morning, again outside in the bitter cold, I’m almost a little sad that the Saturday is over.


Phone Prefix for Norway: 0047, then the eight-digit phone number without area code.

ATM machines (Bankkortet) are plentiful, credit cards are accepted everywhere. Norway is not a euro-area country: 200 DM/approx. 100 euro=794 crowns; 100 Crowns=12.60 euros (Status: November 2001).

Ferry: With colorline (Tel. 04 31/730 00, our site) such as Kiel-Oslo, one-way in the recliner 64 euro per person; back and forth with, and up to five people in the inner cabin 568,55 euro.-Aircraft: Lufthansa and SAS fly directly, KLM via Amsterdam, such as Frankfurt-Oslo from 317 euros.

If you are travelling with your own car, a big mistake: parking and parking cost a fortune in Oslo. A dense network of public transport buses, streets-and S-Bahn trains opens up even the ski areas. With the Oslo-Kortet (in all tourist information) you can use all public transport, admission to most museums and other perks (180 kronor per person for the day, 390 kroons for the weekend card, 395 kroons per day for the family ticket).


Rica Hotel Bygdøy Allè: Nice, charming building that borders on a page a day of noisy Street; an attractive area, newly renovated rooms, friendly young team (Bygdøy all 53, Tel. 23 08 58 00, fax 23 08 58 08, our site;) Double room from 135 euro).-Holmenkollen Park Hotel: historic house on the mountain with more functional extensions in which lie most of the rooms; fantastic views of the city or the Holmenkollen ski jump (Tollbugaten 26, Tel. 22 92 20 00, fax 22 14 61 92, our site;) Double room 150 euros).-First hotel Millennium: unremarkable new box in the middle of the city, highly recommended the rooms on the eighth floor, because they have a roof terrace and breathtaking view (Tollbugaten 25, Tel. 21 02 28 00, fax 21 02 28 30, our site) ; Double room from 130 euro).

Magma: into the hottest restaurant of in town, Sonja Lee and her team of English, French, Swedish and German chefs celebrate culinary purism. Menu from around 32 euros (Bygdøy all 53, Oslo-Frogner, Tel. 23 08 58 am 10). -Aqua: a work of art, the “H2O” on the heavy steel door to recognize; the food is very modern and open, from around 17 euros (Filipstadkaia 2, Aker Brygge, Tel: 22 83 92 99).-Punjab tandoori: not a nice place, rather a simple snack. but good Indian food around 5 euro (24, Oslo Grønland Grønland).-Sult & Torst: in “Thirst” at the illuminated bar drinking a beer and then sitting in the “hunger” in the window a few noodles eat salmon, black truffles and leeks; for about 12 euros (Thorvald Meyers gate 26, Oslo Grünerløkka, Tel. 22 87 04 67).


Kaffebrenneriet: The coffee-shop chain has shops anywhere in the city (E.g., Frogner-/ corner Elisenbergveien, right on the tram, line 12, and 15).-The Broker: cool Café, nice to people watching (Bogstadveien 27, Oslo Majorstua).-Thorvald Meyers gate (TMG) in the Grünerløkka is the scene Street in Oslo in venues such as Fru Hagen (number 40), Tea Lounge (afternoon tea, house number 33) or soup bar (freshly made soups, fine stylish ambience, number 48).

The nomad Café: “etnisk musikkbar” with live concerts (Bernt Anker gate 17, Oslo Grønland).-Millennium: Disco in a former butcher’s shop, here people dance until the morning (José fines gate 23, Tel. 22 69 24 99).-Balazs: former factory, in which DJs with high-pitched sounds (Brennerveien 9 c, Grünerløkka) renew the jazz.-Odeon: popular disco with giant crystal ball and 70-years hits, with “take A chance” by Abba, the devil is going on (Hegdehaugsveien 34, Tel. 22 69 05 35).

Tatler Shopping Mall: one of the most beautiful shopping passages of Europe, stylish, with aquariums as room dividers, wood and steel, open masonry, expensive stores (Hedgehaugsveien, Oslo Hegdehaugen). – Aker Brygge: port expansion with many Cafés, restaurants, discos and shops (Oslo Akerbrygge).

“The eighth commandment”, new crime novel by Anne Holt, the former Deputy witnessing of Oslo and temporary Minister of Justice (Piper, 39.80 DM / 20.35 euros).

Norwegian tourist office, P.o. box 113317, 20433 Hamburg, Tel. 040/229 41 50, fax 040/22 71 08 15, material shipping Tel. 01805/00 15 48 (annoying: 0.12 euros / min), our site, slightly awkward site with sympathetic Spelling errors.-In the city: Oslo promotion, Grev Wedel’s plass 4, Tel. 23 10 62 00, fax 23 10 62 01, our site, documents about hotels, restaurants, attractions, map, etc. in English.

Text: Dirk Lehmann photos: Marion Beckham houses stand December 2001

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