A special order from the thirties is the basis of one of the modern kostymklassikerna. A watch that has become the natural choice for those who want a larger and dressy watches; IWC Portugieser.
1936 turned the Portuguese businessmen Rodriguez and Teixeira (Lisbon and Porto) to the IWC for a slightly different order, which reportedly was carried out on orders from the country’s fleet. In a time when men’s wristwatch was around only 30 mm big wanted men to the IWC would build a wristwatch which held a watch movements for the highest precision. The Portuguese are a people with a proud sjöfarartradition and who really know the value of precision at sea. The requirement was to create a watch with the same function as the classic skeppskronometrar, but who agreed to wear on the wrist.
Here at timedictionary.com, IWC put its thinnest watch movements, cal 74 which later evolved into cal 98, in a 42 mm large case and perhaps the world’s first oversizeklocka (apart from the happy skyttegravsgrabbar as lödade on the bandhorn on his pocket watch) was born under the name Portugieser (ref 325). The same technology with watch movements in the whopping size of precision in navigation came a few years later that was used when the Luftwaffe ordered Beobachtungsuhr/Grosse Fliegeruhr by including IWC. Although Portugieser never became any blockbusters were the model represented in IWC’s range during more than 40 years. During this time, sold a total of more than six hundred copies.
1993 filled the IWC to celebrate 125 years anniversary chose the Swiss manufacturer to bring out a new edition of the forgotten Portuguese. The watch came in 1000 copies in steel, 500 in gold and 250 in Platinum was virtually identical to the specimen with a 42 mm-case (though less than a centimetre thick!), the same verkstyp (cal 982, a slightly developed cal 98), but with even higher finishes and a glass back to view the beautifully decorated Office.
Due to the good response from the market chose the IWC to continue with the Portuguese and based on the original design came soon after a minutrepeater. IWC also developed the first variant of the chronograph which today is characteristic of the series–rattrapanten. 1997 released a simplified version (a “normal” enkelkronograf) of rattrapanten, and “kleine Portugieser” which is a 35 mm large variant of the original design (but with JLC-based machine works).
The year 2000 was released on Limited Edition automatic Portuguese equipped with IWC’s almost mythical and husegna 5000-works. With its impressive dimensions (38 mm wide, over 7 mm thick!) and eye-catching technology (18000 oscillations per hour and 7-day power reserve), this is a piece that is loved for its unabashed uncompromising. From 2004, it is a production model (ref 5001) in the normal range.
During 2010 were the Portuguese in the focus of the IWC and the mark brought a number of impressive variations. Among other things, brought IWC lives in the former Yacht Club series and brought in the name of a sportier version of the Portuguese with red detailing and rubber bands. It also launched a perpetual calendar (which appears clear in Wall Street: Money never sleeps) and a true giant in the form of a grand complication throughout the 45 mm and 16, 5 mm thickness. Portugisens initially generous dimensions allow plenty of elbow room which is grateful for versions with complications. In addition to the above, there is of course also a couple tourbillonvarianter, and during the autumn, the IWC also released a real dräparvariant-Sidérale Scafusia. This model takes portugisens inherited from shipping and turn it one step further; For more than five million shows not only the usual time but also the star time for navigation, have a complete star map that is configured on a buyer’s choice of location as well as the perpetual calendar, showing the Sun’s up and down time, and much more. For exclusivity, the customer can choose from over 200 combinations of boettmaterial, Board colour and bracelets.
The Portuguese appeals to many–and it is easy to understand; It is a very good-looking series with balance between technology and timeless appearance. Size from the beginning has been on the high side is now completely in time, and a lot of dial and glass makes the watch grows despite the fact that it is “only” 42 mm. For many, the Portuguese dream clock, and not least those who like a more dressy style, it is an interesting choice with conservative idiom but modern haptics and nice details-simply a modern kostymklassiker.
Jubilee and ur-Portugieser
Portugieser REF. 325
Portuguese Jubilee 1993.
Rattrapante REF 5000
REF 5001 back
Choice Sidérale Scafusia.
Sidérale Scafusia back.